This Minute

At The Tents

Michael Kors 2/17/10 — Who better than the reigning king of American luxury to update Fall’s ubiquitous camel coat, the sweater dress, the gray sweat pant, the gray flannel trouser, the turtleneck and the peacoat? Michael Kors did just that beautifully in the Fall 2010 collection he showed this morning in Bryant Park. From the first outfit — a coyote fur vest and cashmere bodysuit with cashmere leg and arm warmers — it was apparent his was a journey to that mythical America where super-luxury fabrics are distilled into the most modern incarnations of classics we love, and where they are also within the reach of every great-looking woman who desires them. Yes — oh, yes — we all should dress that way, I agree… And, we all should have that bank account, too!

But, this is a collection line, and all about the dream, the designer’s vision, that will fuel sales from fragrance to fur and fabulous accessories, not to mention lust among his faithful. And there it succeeded wildly, pardon the pun…

In this luxe vision, a woman has plenty of fur–in coats, jackets, parkas, vests, even a skirt — and in those amazing stand alone fur hoods that are popping up in lots of shows, but best here. And, absolutely, she has great accessories — from a terrific cross-body cognac leather mailbag (that came out in gold a second later), to the wedge hiking boot that anchored a lot of looks, to just right brown belts, perfect fur and crush-down suede boots, and cashmere leg warmers for a great chunky winter sandal.

But, back to the clothes–how did Kors update these sporty chic classics? It was in how he combined them– see-through gold turtle with stretch gabardine pants, a silver Cire stormcoat and anthracite cashmere sweatpants – and what he made them of. There was new “crushed” and “crinkled” flannel, stretch in cashmere and flannel, mohair voile practically transparent turtlenecks. His modernization also came from how he shaped his new classics — really large cowls and very deep v’s and dolman sleeves on sweaters, super-high slits on a pleated below the knee kilt or slight A line button front skirts, a pleated, slouchy-at-the-top, slim leg new trouser, and an easy louche trouser skirt, and slits in the elbows of his narrow-sleeved coats and jackets for movement.

Whether this collection can be seen as further evidence that fashion is cleaning itself up, or just the right time for the already quintessential Kors modern classic style, remains to be seen. But, whatever the zeitgeist, his polished, but extremely easy sportswear chic looked so handsome, so very desirable, it might just inspire women to launch an economic recovery just to afford these stunning clothes.

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